There’s a day every late summer when you suddenly realise autumn is coming. It might have otherwise been a perfectly warm day but there’ll just suddenly be this dip in temperature, a sudden gust of slightly cooler air, maybe carrying the hint of smoke from a nearby woodfire.
This year it took a bit longer than it usually does, but I definitely felt it not long ago. So instantly my thoughts turned to cooking. I love autumn cooking as much as I love unearthing and freshening up the blankets that have been in storage for months, digging out some cosy autumn clothing and anticipating the changing colours, beautiful autumn light, cosy evenings and all the books read under those blankets that somehow you never have time to read during the hot and long days of summer because there’s always something else to do. But mostly to food. Casseroles, bakes, celebration food for Halloween and Christmas and, of course, soup.
I know this year, writing in 2022, the prospect of autumn isn’t a joy for a lot of people, and I share in that nervous feeling. I realise for those who don’t have the facilities and resources, well-intended posts and tweets about batch cooking and similar aren’t much help. I wish I could do something more to offer solace or even better, practical help, but really my only ability here is to provide recipes that I hope will give some comfort.
So after seeing out the last days of summer – literally the weather changed the day we drove back, from blazing sunshine and sunblock to autumnal chills overnight – in Norfolk, I came home with some seasonal ingredients, one of which was a beautiful, flawless butternut squash. Had the weather continued as it had been, it might have been roasts and put in a salad, but with the temperature change of just one day, it became a soup.
A naturally sweet squash, I thought pairing it with chestnut puree was risky, and the end result is indeed sweeter to taste than most soups, but with the right level of seasoning, spice and a hint of chilli to break through it, this not only has an indulgent, rich taste but one that also evokes all the memories that come with the flavours of autumn – squashes at the end of the growing season, chestnuts in stews and stuffings – and also possesses a warming, rich flavour which just begs to be enjoyed bundled under a blanket on a sofa for total comfort. Feel free to scatter over yoghurt, cream or seeds for contrast and variety, but even alone this is a velvety, rich autumnal treat. Enjoy!
INGREDIENTS
1 kg butternut squash
3 sage leaves
Chilli flakes
Sea salt & ground black pepper
2 x garlic cloves, grated
½ tsp pink peppercorns
1ltr vegetable stock
200g sachet of chestnut puree
½ tsp ground nutmeg
METHOD
- Remove the seeds from the butternut squash – don’t worry about peeling it before you halve it. Be careful cutting – it helps to remove the root base on the bottom of the squash to give you a more steady balance to chip through the fruit.
- Roast the halved butternut, seasoned with black pepper, sea salt and chilli flakes and massaged with olive oil, at 200 degrees Celsius until you can easily slide a sharp knife into the flesh. Remove and leave to cool enough to handle, then peel away the skin.
- Chop the sage leaves, peel and grate the garlic and soften both in a large pan over a medium heat. Crush the pink peppercorns and add them. Once the herbs and garlic are softened, throw in the flesh from the butternut squash and the chestnut puree. Add the litre of vegetable stock.
- Stew the mixture down and stir well for ten minutes – it won’t take long. Allow to cool enough to mix to a smooth soup with a hand blender (or cool for longer and use a stand mixer).
- Return to the pan, bring back to a simmer and check for seasoning – every butternut squash will vary as will stocks, so season to taste now rather than earlier. Add the nutmeg at this stage also and perhaps some more chilli flakes.
The Food Waffle 